Juanlu Fernández

Chef Juanlu Fernández's culinary philosophy, epitomized by his concept of "vanguardia de retaguardia" (rear-guard avant-garde), is deeply rooted in the historical and cultural fabric of Jerez de la Frontera and Andalusia. His core ethos involves delving into the origins of local recipes and products, revolutionizing them with technical mastery while preserving their soul and context. This approach stems from his upbringing, learning to cook at age five with his grandmother Josefa, whose "recetas de aprovechamiento" (resourceful cooking) were born from the scarcity of post-Civil War Spain. Fernández seeks to elevate these humble, often "left-behind" regional dishes to haute cuisine, creating an emotional and transportive experience for diners that connects them to their past and the rich heritage of Jerez. His ingredient sourcing is meticulously local and producer-focused, bringing items directly from the province. This includes specific mentions of "langostinos del alba" (prawns caught at dawn for optimal freshness) and "choco de Puerto Real." LÚ Cocina y Alma also boasts one of the world's largest Sherry archives, showcasing bottles spanning over 120 years, often from defunct wineries or forgotten collections, which are integrated into the dining experience. The restaurant even features its own "mantequilla madre" (mother butter), continuously refreshed for seven years, demonstrating a commitment to unique, house-made elements. Fernández's overarching vision extends beyond the plate; it is a profound commitment to his community and the revival of Jerez. He aims to make the city a premier gastronomic destination, serving as an ambassador for its Sherry wines and rich culinary traditions. His dream is to eventually unite a boutique hotel, winery, restaurant, and wine bar into a single "château" in Jerez, further strengthening the city's cultural and gastronomic identity and ensuring its unique story is told and celebrated globally. This vision marries his deep respect for history with an innovative drive for the future. Chef Juanlu Fernández's technical style is a masterful fusion of classical French haute cuisine and profound Andalusian heritage. Having trained under Martín Berasategui and spent a decade as head chef at Ángel León's pioneering Aponiente (where he was instrumental in developing dishes with plankton and sea-charcuterie), Fernández brings a refined technical prowess to his work. He applies deep French techniques—like the 'pot-a-feu' method—to traditional Andalusian 'pucheros' (stews), replacing common French ingredients like butter and cream with local equivalents such as 'Manteca Colorá' (colored lard), Sherry wines, and Jerez vinegar, creating a distinct "marriage" of cultures. He is known for dreaming up new recipes, which he then refines through rigorous trial-and-error in the kitchen. His approach to flavor and plating is designed to evoke nostalgia and immerse diners in the culture of Jerez. Dishes often transform traditional textures while retaining authentic flavors, such as serving 'pringá' (the rich meat from a stew) within a ravioli or presenting 'papas 'aliñás'' (dressed potatoes) as delicate gnocchi with parsley oil. Plating aims to replicate "social and family" dining experiences, often with an artistic touch, like serving aged ocean fish with a velvety 50-year-old Sherry sauce on gold-plated Limoges porcelain. His philosophy champions the "sublimation of leftovers," turning humble ingredients into sophisticated culinary expressions. Among his legendary signature dishes are: * Berza jerezana: A reimagined Jerez cabbage stew, featuring cardillos, chickpeas, and opulent meats, ingeniously served with 'pringá' in a ravioli and a reduced, clarified broth. * Lubina atlántica a la roteña: An Atlantic sea bass Rota-style, adjusted with steamed loins and crispy potato. * Salpicón con verduras fermentadas y mariscos: A seafood salad showcasing "langostinos del alba" (prawns caught at dawn) paired with fermented vegetables. * Choco de Puerto Real a la cochambrosa: Puerto Real cuttlefish transformed into a ravioli, filled with a stew of its interiors and served over a broth of burned tomatoes. * Boquerón en vinagre con sopa fría de zanahoria 'encominá': Marinated anchovies accompanied by a cold, cumin-spiced carrot soup. * Tartaleta de chicharrones con caviar: A pork rind tartlet exquisitely topped with caviar. * 'Tortilla de papas de la noche anterior': A previous night's potato omelet ingeniously reinterpreted as a canutillo (tube) filled with onion powder. * Pescadilla en amarillo: Whiting in a traditional yellow sauce, noted for its emotional resonance with diners.

Career

• Chef at Martín Berasategui, Lasarte-Oria
• Executive Chef at Aponiente, El Puerto de Santa María
• Chef-Owner at LÚ Cocina y Alma, Jerez de la Frontera

Mentored by Martín Berasategui, Ángel León.