Fina Puigdevall

Martina Puigvert's culinary philosophy is profoundly rooted in the volcanic landscape of La Garrotxa, Catalunya, viewing cooking as an 'act of remembrance and sustainability.' Her core ethos revolves around an ultra-local, circular gastronomy model where the environment is not merely a backdrop but the primary source of inspiration. This commitment is vividly expressed through her deep connection to the land and its seasonal offerings, championing humble ingredients like local peas, purple cabbages, buckwheat, and the unique Santa Pau beans, which she lovingly refers to as 'our caviar.' Ingredient sourcing is hyper-local, with a significant portion coming directly from Les Cols' own vegetable garden and chicken coop, nestled in the Bianya Valley between Romanesque churches. This garden serves as a vibrant ecosystem and an R&D space, cultivated with the support of biologists, naturalists, and geographers, allowing for a comprehensive understanding and respectful interaction with nature. Beyond their own cultivation, Puigvert prioritizes collaboration with small local producers and farmers, recognizing their crucial role in preserving regional biodiversity and traditions. She views this synergy as essential, supporting the younger generations committed to sustainable agriculture in La Garrotxa. The overarching vision is one of holistic sustainability, integrating practices such as composting vegetable waste, feeding dry bread to lambs and chickens, and making preserves to eliminate food waste, thereby 'closing the circle' of gastronomy. Puigvert also emphasizes the human element, seeing the entire team – from family members (her sisters Carlota and Clara) to farmers, architects, and staff – as an extension of the family project, fostering a collaborative and evolving environment. Her philosophy blends deep respect for legacy and tradition with a fresh, innovative perspective, ensuring that Les Cols continues to evolve while remaining firmly anchored in its cherished region. Chef Martina Puigvert's technical style is characterized by its artistic rendition of the La Garrotxa landscape, focusing on conveying the essence of the region and the mutable passage of seasons onto the plate. Her approach to flavor is pure and expressive, elevating humble, ultra-local, and seasonal ingredients through meticulous technique. Plating is often evocative, with dishes designed to connect the diner directly to nature and the present moment. She strives for a 'refreshing twist' while honoring tradition and the historical significance of regional products. Two of her most legendary signature dishes exemplify this approach: * **Edible Bouquet (Ramillete de hojas, hierbas y flores):** This dish is a fresh composition made with freshly picked leaves, herbs, and flowers from the garden. It is designed to be eaten with the fingers, like a paintbrush, connecting the diner with the sensory experience of nature. * **Buckwheat Rice (Arroz de alforfón):** Utilizing buckwheat, a native crop of La Garrotxa, this dish showcases the ingredient in multiple forms – as a grain, as flour, and even accompanied by buckwheat beer. It highlights the versatility and cultural significance of the product, transforming a simple ingredient into a complex and regionally specific culinary narrative. Another notable dish mentioned is the lamb preparation, where she aims to 'close the vital circle of that animal.' This dish features different cuts of lamb (shoulder, sweetbread) accompanied by a hollandaise sauce made from grilled lettuce, and a unique presentation where 'lamb's wool' disappears before the diner with a sauce. It's paired with 'vegetable lamb' (white eggplant lacquered with honey and coffee) and frozen sheep's milk requesón, showcasing her innovative use of both animal and plant products while emphasizing circularity.

Career

• Work Placement at Can Ferrer pastry shop, Olot
• Student (Gastronomy and Culinary Arts) at Basque Culinary Center, San Sebastián
• Internship at Lua, Madrid
• Internship at Koy Shunka, Barcelona
• Internship at Blue Hill at Stone Barns, New York
• Internship at Gustu, La Paz, Bolivia
• Head Chef at Les Cols, Olot

Mentored by Fina Puigdevall, Grandmother.