Julen Bergantiños

Chef Julen Bergantiños' culinary philosophy is deeply rooted in a profound reverence for the historical and cultural gastronomic heritage of the northern Iberian peninsula—encompassing Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria, and the Basque Country. He sees these regions not as distinct entities defined by modern borders, but as a unified 'home and frontier' where, historically, culinary traditions converged. This perspective drives his mission to recover and defend age-old guisos (stews) and recipes, often unearthed through meticulous research in ancient texts, reflecting a 'look back to move forward' ethos. His approach is inextricably linked to nature and seasonality, dictating four distinct menus per year that celebrate the transient bounty of the land and sea. Ingredient sourcing is a cornerstone of his philosophy; Bergantiños is committed to local, small-scale producers. He personally ventures out to meet artisans—from an 88-year-old arbeyos farmer in Mieres to local bakers, coffee roasters, and cheesemakers—ensuring the highest quality and maximum flavor in every component. This obsessive coherence extends to every detail, from exclusively northern Spanish wines to bespoke tableware crafted from local clays, imbuing the dining experience with an authentic sense of place and narrative. Despite his personal struggles with the industry, his culinary passion remains dedicated to showcasing the profound flavors and storytelling potential embedded in his regional heritage. Chef Bergantiños' technical style is a masterclass in elegant simplicity, primarily centered around traditional northern Iberian guisos, a deliberate choice born from the constraints of his diminutive kitchen equipped with just a single induction hob. He champions the power of a single pot, leveraging techniques that allow collagen to preserve, enhance, and deepen flavors over days. His collaboration with food historian Ana Vega underscores a commitment to authenticity, reviving ancient recipes and techniques that modern gastronomy has often overlooked, making tradition both his logistical ally and culinary language. This eschews complex machinery in favor of time-honored methods. His approach to flavor and plating is about maximum quality and purity of taste, influenced by global street food experiences. Dishes are crafted to tell a story, with the Cantabrian coast unfolding like chapters on the plate, ensuring a regional narrative in every course. Islares offers two tasting menus: the 9-course 'A-8' and the 13-course 'N-634,' named after the historic routes connecting the regions he celebrates. Legendary signature dishes include: * Caldo de Sorropotún * Pastel Ruso de Sardinas * Sobao Pasiego con Anchoa de Laredo * Cebolleta Karranzana, Guiso de Magano y Café de Nokora * Totalo de Cigala, Guiso de Txistorras a la Sidra y Limón de Novales * The highly celebrated Hojaldre de Tomate de Erandio, Garüm y Mantequilla de Agua de Mar (a 'tartaleta hojaldrada de mantequilla marina' with cow collagen and seawater, topped with roasted tomatoes, green sprouts, and cured sardine exudate) * Pochas de Verano con Escabeche de Pitu y Ostra de Cambados * Pixín Asado con Intxaursaltsa y Licor de Eucalipto * Vaca Tudanca, Lechuga Lollo de Anero y Escabeche de Anchoa The seasonality dictates specific guisos, such as those featuring seasonal mushrooms with Galician lobster or Ascain duck with magano and xoubas garum, ensuring a dynamic culinary journey throughout the year.

Career

• Cocinero at Mina, Bilbao
• Chef/Cook at Can Jubany, Calldetenes
• Chef/Cook at El Celler de Can Roca, Girona
• Chef-Owner at Islares, Bilbao

Mentored by Nandu Jubany, Joan Roca, Josep Roca, Jordi Roca, Pedro Sánchez, Dabiz Muñoz.