Francis Paniego

Francis Paniego's culinary philosophy is deeply rooted in the rich heritage of his family and the land of La Rioja, striving to create a cuisine that evokes emotion by masterfully blending tradition with cutting-edge vanguard. He views his work as a continuation of a 127-year legacy, primarily inherited from the women in his family—his grandmother Julia, mother Marisa Sánchez, and aunts—emphasizing that the "Paniego" name only entered the kitchen recently. This legacy instills a profound sense of honor, responsibility, and gratitude, shaping his understanding of hospitality and the craft itself. His core ethos is built on the teachings of his parents: maintaining humility ("pies en la tierra"), treating guests with utmost respect and gratitude, and offering natural, Riojan warmth. Paniego's journey involved an initial fascination with avant-garde movements and kitchens like Arzak, Akelarre, and El Bulli. However, with maturity, he returned to his mother's cooking, realizing it was "the center of everything." He now reinterprets this ancestral wisdom with modern techniques, infusing it with "soul, memory, and a profound respect for our roots." He defines his cuisine as "Rica" (rich in flavor), "Respetuosa" (respectful of the environment, history, and workers), and "Responsable" (accountable to the client and the restaurant's role). Ingredient sourcing is intrinsically tied to the local "territorio" and its seasonality. Paniego champions a vision of sustainability that extends far beyond a restaurant garden; it involves a "local network" of small, trusted suppliers. He emphasizes deep, respectful relationships with individuals like Despensa de Pisón, David the shepherd (for "corderos chamaritos"), Goyo the cattle farmer in Fresneda, and his butcher, José María Ochoa. A key aspect of this sustainability, for him, is the practice of cooking and consuming the entire animal, with casquería (offal) holding a significant place in his menu. He advocates for supporting local producers and gastronomy with identity, expressing concern over the loss of traditional establishments to soulless franchises and the increasing difficulty for new generations to appreciate authenticity. Ultimately, Paniego believes Michelin stars are a consequence of excellence, not the sole objective, with the paramount goal being the guest's happiness and the creation of a sustainable, enduring culinary project. Chef Francis Paniego's technical style is characterized by a sophisticated reconciliation of ancestral culinary wisdom with contemporary techniques, resulting in a unique expression of Riojan cuisine. After an initial period of exploring avant-garde methods learned from iconic kitchens like Arzak, Akelarre, and El Bulli, Paniego deliberately embraced his mother's traditional cooking. He applies modern culinary mastery, maturity, and deep affection to these family recipes, ensuring they are reinterpreted with "alma, memoria y un profundo respeto por nuestras raíces." His approach is fundamentally anchored by three pillars: "territorio, memoria y casquería" (territory, memory, and offal), reflecting a profound connection to his local environment, historical culinary practices, and a sustainable philosophy of using whole animals. His approach to flavor prioritizes intensity and honesty, ensuring every dish is "rica"—rich in taste. Plating, while not explicitly detailed, implies a respectful presentation that highlights the quality of local, seasonal ingredients sourced from his network of small, ethical producers. Casquería, in particular, is elevated beyond mere sustenance, becoming a central artistic and technical challenge that showcases both tradition and innovation. He also masterfully incorporates regional products like wine, not just as a pairing but as an integral ingredient, treating it as an "aderezo que acompaña a una salsa," as seen in his innovative use of agraz (green grape juice) in a vichyssoise. Among his most legendary signature dishes are: * **Merluza 45**: An emblematic hake dish that, through its "romana" (battering), symbolizes the evolution of Echaurren's gastronomy, blending tradition with refined technique. * **Sopa de pescado**: A deeply iconic, historical recipe that has remained a constant on the menu at Echaurren Tradición, representing the essence of family legacy and culinary transmission. * **Sopa de cabracho con foie gras poelé**: A modern reinterpretation of the "pastel de cabra roja," an early marker of modernity in the family's cooking, demonstrating his ability to revisit and elevate historical concepts. * **Secuencia íntegra a base de casquería de cordero**: A dedicated series of dishes on the El Portal menu, showcasing his commitment to utilizing lamb offal, embodying his philosophy of sustainable cooking and respect for the entire animal.

Career

• Chef/Owner at El Portal de Echaurren, Ezcaray, La Rioja
• Director Gastronómico at Restaurante del Hotel Marqués de Riscal, Elciego, Álava
• Trainee/Stage at Akelarre, San Sebastián
• Trainee/Stage at Arzak, San Sebastián
• Trainee/Stage at Zalacaín, Madrid
• Course Attendee at El Bulli, Roses

Mentored by Marisa Sánchez, Julia (grandmother), Pedro Subijana, Juan Mari Arzak, Ferran Adrià.