José Olmedo Carles Rojas

Chef José Olmedo Carles Rojas’s culinary philosophy is deeply rooted in showcasing the vibrant, multicultural identity of Panama. He aims for "una cocina que habla de Panamá," reflecting the nation's unique history as a transit country that has fostered a rich tapestry of influences, from Chinese dim sum and Afro-Antillean octopus with coconut milk to tamales bearing Mesoamerican and European connections. He embraces the assimilation of global ingredients like soy sauce and Parmesan into Panamanian cuisine, viewing this capacity as a constant source of exploration, particularly as he believes Panama's gastronomy is still evolving and not yet fully defined. His approach to Fonda Lo Que Hay was born "sin pretensiones," initially cooking with "lo que había" from experiments at his previous restaurant, Donde José. This inherent honesty, authenticity, and accessibility have shaped Fonda Lo Que Hay into a restaurant with a clear identity. It delivers high-level cuisine within a relaxed, joyful, and casual environment, aiming to create unique yet familiar experiences that resonate with the Panamanian personality. Carles emphasizes that true culinary success isn't defined by lists but by deeply held values, discipline, and the restaurant being full. Ingredient sourcing is predominantly local, leveraging Panama's "gran variedad de tubérculos y almidones vegetales." This natural inclination towards local produce informed his menu development, allowing him to craft plant-based and naturally gluten-free alternatives like tortillas and tempuras. His overarching vision extends beyond the kitchen, striving to position Panama as a formidable gastronomic destination on the global stage, a mission he furthers through ventures like Si! Mon in Los Angeles. He champions finding one's "propia voz" in gastronomy rather than merely following trends, asserting that genuine creativity is not just ideation but a process of hands-on execution. He also places immense value on his team, recognizing them as the restaurant's greatest asset and fostering a healthy, evolving work environment. Chef José Olmedo Carles Rojas’s technical style is characterized by a relentless pursuit of perfection, meticulous research, and a careful, story-driven approach to every ingredient. He seeks to create dishes that are both unique and deeply accessible, playing on diners' familiarity with ingredients or concepts ("eso lo conozco, o eso lo he visto, pero nunca de esta manera") but presenting them in an entirely novel fashion. His kitchen is a hub of experimentation, initially rooted in utilizing the "leftovers" and discoveries from Donde José, fostering an environment where innovation thrives. Flavor profiles are a direct reflection of Panama's "natural fusion," embracing a "sabroso, latino, lleno de energía" character infused with diverse cultural influences. He expertly integrates a wide variety of local tubers and vegetable starches, transforming them into creative gluten-free elements such as tortillas, tempuras, pancakes, and tacos. Plating is designed to complement the relaxed yet high-level dining experience, avoiding pretension while delivering sophisticated results. His most legendary signature dishes include the iconic "Yuca Tostada con Carpaccio de Atún y Ceviche de Cebollas," a long-standing impactful creation. More recently, "Las Almejas Sexys," developed by his executive sous chef Hiram Thompson, has achieved similar recognition for its innovative appeal.

Career

• Chef (post-Cordon Bleu diploma) at Icebergs Dining Room and Bar, Sydney, Australia
• Intern, then full-time Chef at Attica, Melbourne, Australia
• Chef and Owner at Donde José, Panama City, Panama
• Chef-Owner/Restaurateur at Fonda Lo Que Hay, Panama City, Panama

Mentored by Ben Shewry (Attica).