Thomas Dorfer
Chef
Restaurants in Vienna
About Thomas Dorfer
Chef Thomas Dorfer's culinary philosophy is deeply rooted in a profound respect for the timeless classics of both French and Austrian cuisine, which he considers the fundamental bedrock upon which to build. He approaches these traditions not with rigid adherence, but with a nuanced sensibility, allowing him to subtly reference and reinterpret foundational elements such as Albufeira, Sauce Choron, Royale, or Beurre Blanc, often elevating them to a central role in his dishes. While honouring the past, Dorfer is not stagnant; his kitchen constantly explores new ideas, drawing influences from Japan and South America, yet these are never gratuitous. Instead, they are meticulously integrated to complement a style that can only be described as truly timeless, focusing on a quiet, continuous evolution rather than fleeting culinary fads. The seasonal product is paramount, taking centre stage in his creations. Dorfer's ingredient sourcing prioritizes uncompromising quality above all else. He maintains that all components, whether fish, vegetables, poultry, or meat, must be first-class, procured from the finest suppliers, some of whom have been long-standing partners while others have been carefully integrated over time. His guiding principle is not strict regionalism, but rather the pursuit of superlative taste and quality, exemplified by sourcing deer from Waldviertel, pike from Salzkammergut, and equally, sole and Norway lobster from the Atlantic. This demonstrates a cosmopolitan culinary perspective, dedicated solely to achieving the best possible outcome. His cuisine is characterized by an explosive flavour profile, eschewing purism in favour of dishes that are an invitation to engage fully with a symphony of aromas and textures. There is nothing confrontational or separating in his approach; instead, ingredients and techniques blend harmoniously to create an experience that guests find "shockingly good." Dorfer believes in the warmth, attitude, and reliability that people seek in a dining experience, crafting a cuisine that resonates with depth and authenticity. Thomas Dorfer's technical mastery is most evident in his unparalleled expertise with sauces, which he considers the very soul of a dish. He delves into rich detail in this area, presenting sauces that both quote culinary history and reinterpret them for contemporary palates, such as his take on Sauce Zingara for pike. His foundation in French and Austrian cooking underpins an approach that values essential techniques like braising and stock-making as ever-relevant. He applies the same meticulousness to vegetables as he does to more luxurious ingredients. His approach to flavour and plating is characterized by a non-puristic style that aims for an explosive taste experience. He meticulously composes each dish to engage the diner with a blend of aromas and textures, ensuring a harmonious integration rather than a provocative separation of elements. Dorfer deliberately eschews transient culinary trends, preferring a straightforward, modern classic aesthetic akin to a bespoke suit over a printed T-shirt. Miniature elements like dumplings, gratins, and ravioli are cherished components that have outlasted fads. The patisserie, led by Chef Patissier Manfred Löschl, demonstrates exceptional precision, crafting desserts with remarkably subtle sweetness, such as Meyer lemon ice cream with salted caramel cream, or Hukambi chocolate with Tonka granules. Among his most legendary signature dishes are his new interpretation of Austrian classics, most notably the Tafelspitz-Ravioli with Semmelkren and Spinach, which has earned its place as a permanent fixture on the menu. Another notable creation is the Pike from Mondsee served with a modern interpretation of Sauce Zingara. He also features sophisticated renditions of classic preparations like Lièvre à la Royale. While not his creation, he respectfully maintains Lisl Wagner-Bacher's enduring classic, the baked egg with caviar, on the menu.
Career
- Apprentice at Local Inn, Kärnten, Austria
- Cook at Unknown Restaurant, Sydney, Australia
- Cook at Unknown Restaurant, Switzerland
- Intern at Joachim Wissler's establishment, Germany
- Intern at Hans Haas's establishment, Germany
- Learner at Juan Mari and Elena Arzak's establishment, Spain
- Sous Chef at Bareiss, Germany
- Chef (2002-2010) at Landhaus Bacher, Mautern an der Donau, Austria
- Küchenchef / Chef-Owner (since 2010) at Landhaus Bacher, Mautern an der Donau, Austria
Mentored by Joachim Wissler, Hans Haas, Juan Mari Arzak, Elena Arzak, Claus-Peter Lumpp.
Restaurants
- Landhaus Bacher — Mautern An Der Donau (2 Michelin stars)