Stéphane Dattrino

Stéphane Dattrino, a naturally reserved chef, profoundly expresses his "sensitivity & creativity" through his cooking. His core ethos centers on a high level of creative freedom and simplicity, driven by an "almost visceral need to give pleasure to others." His cuisine is a "signature style made up of intense flavours combining the acidity of citrus with the earthiness of vegetables and the aromatic power of herbs," forming a "holy trinity that lays the foundations of a refined yet daring and unadulterated approach to cooking." He aims for a culinary style that is "both current and classic, inspired by the Savoie region and yet open to the world." His objective for L'Esquisse, which he runs with his wife Magali, is to "welcome people as if they were at home," creating a discreet yet high-standard culinary experience with meticulous attention to detail. A pivotal shift two years ago, influenced by his mentor Laurent Petit, led Chef Dattrino towards a profoundly "vegetable-based cuisine." His work now "revolves around an approach that holds the highest respect for vegetables, now the centerpiece for each meal," favoring a "sustainable and vibrant approach to cooking that showcases every part of the vegetable, with nothing left to waste." He explicitly states, "My sauces and gravies contain no meat and are made exclusively with vegetables," and firmly believes "no butter, no cream – the produce 'speaks for itself'." In this new paradigm, meat is consciously relegated to a garnish, serving primarily to highlight the vibrant vegetables and their accompanying vegetable-based sauces. Ingredient sourcing is paramount to his philosophy, with "the product" at the beginning of his process. He meticulously selects vegetables from the local farmers' market twice a week. Cheeses are sourced from renowned artisans such as Pierre Gay, "Meilleur Ouvrier de France," and the Farto Cooperative in Thônes, always regional and prepared, never raw. He collaborates with esteemed local producers for other ingredients, including Claude Bocquet for meat, Philippe Héritier for wine and snails, and Vincent Coly for fish from Lake Geneva. Furthermore, Chef Dattrino nurtures over 200 varieties of aromatic herbs in his own 40 m² garden, gathering wildflowers and cultivating summer savory, thyme, basil, and nasturtium, which are then incorporated fresh into his dishes or transformed into homemade syrups for aperitifs, underscoring his commitment to hyper-locality and freshness. Chef Dattrino's technical mastery is deeply rooted in his innovative vegetable-centric approach, which he describes as working "with each vegetable in its entirety," extracting maximum flavor and minimizing waste. He has revolutionized his kitchen by replacing traditional meat au jus and gravies with exquisite vegetable-based reductions and caramelizations, which form the rich foundations of his dishes. His technique emphasizes "a concentration of flavor," exemplified by his asparagus preparation, where the skin is boiled, caramelized, and infused with its own broth to cook the tender core. Similarly, a dish of Tarbais beans features roasted and browned scallions, ginger, fennel, and spices, which are integral to the accompanying sauce. His plating and flavor profiles are characterized by a playful manipulation of "textures and flavours," creating sophisticated yet unadulterated culinary experiences. This is evident in his transformation of fresh tomme cheese into a delicate espuma, harmoniously paired with a refreshing watercress granita, crisp ground walnuts, and the subtle freshness of wild caraway seeds. He also infuses his own homemade herb syrups, such as summer savory, into aperitifs. Among his most enduring and legendary signature dishes, cherished by loyal diners and having remained on the menu since the restaurant opened, are the "woodland-fragranced potato cappuccino served in a mug," the "crispy lamb sweetbread," and the intricately layered "cauliflower purée and braised flat cabbage, served with pickled cauliflower, layered like a vegetable mille-feuille, and topped with a pinch of shredded cauliflower and smoked pike roe." These dishes exemplify his commitment to creativity, simplicity, and the profound expression of terroir.

Career

• Sous-chef at Le Clos des Sens, Annecy-le-Vieux
• Chef-Owner at L'Esquisse, Annecy

Mentored by Laurent Petit.