Shaun Hill
Chef
Restaurants in Wales
About Shaun Hill
Shaun Hill's culinary philosophy is deeply rooted in modesty, longevity, and an unwavering commitment to taste and enjoyment over mere aesthetics. He believes that "it’s more important that food tastes good than looks good," prioritizing the diner's pleasure above all else. His approach is unconstrained by rigid culinary traditions, particularly in Wales, which he sees as a "clean slate" allowing him to make the best of contemporary ingredients rather than mimicking historical or foreign gastronomic heritages. This freedom fosters a dynamic menu that reflects taste combinations he has personally enjoyed over decades. He emphasizes that the best meals are "surprisingly and unexpectedly good," highlighting a desire to delight and engage the diner. His ingredient sourcing is meticulous and quality-driven; while appreciative of local Welsh produce like lamb, rare breed pork, Welsh Black cattle, and artisan cheeses, he insists that "just being local is not good enough on its own." Hill prefers to physically inspect ingredients rather than ordering sight unseen, ensuring peak quality. His pantry staples are carefully chosen for flavor and longevity, including top-tier vinegars, oils, Tabasco, Worcestershire sauce, mustards, anchovies, salt herring, and whole spices for maximum vibrancy. Hill's overarching vision is shaped by extensive global travel to diverse and inspiring locations such as Tashkent, Damascus, Palmeira, Kyiv, Sikkim, and Bhutan. These experiences have enriched his understanding of flavor combinations, techniques, and pure inspiration, all contributing to a menu that is both exciting and definitively his own. His kitchen ethos is built on strict rules for hygiene and safety, coupled with a fundamental "sympathy between ingredient and dish," ensuring that the ego of the cook never overshadows the inherent qualities of the food. He also champions the importance of wine, believing "there is not much point in spending as much time as it takes to cook the best ingredients if what is in your glass disappoints." Shaun Hill's technical mastery is characterized by a refined classicism, adapting foundational techniques with innovative twists and an acute sensitivity to ingredients. He approaches dishes analytically, breaking them down to their constituent parts and re-engineering them for optimal flavor and texture, as exemplified by his perfected Cornish fish bourride, which he re-imagined with chicken stock. His plating, while secondary to taste, is elegantly considered, and his menus are meticulously written, reflecting an analytical and detail-oriented mind. Flavor is the ultimate arbiter in his kitchen. Hill expertly balances textures and celebrates versatile ingredients, holding a particular fondness for offal due to its richness and depth, and shellfish for its natural sweetness, with scallops being a personal favorite. He demonstrates this by contrasting the textures of lamb sweetbread pies served alongside roasted rack of lamb. His accompaniments are thoughtfully chosen to complement, not overshadow, the main components, such as a crisp salad or soft vegetable purée alongside his 'Pork in Shirtsleeves'. Hill also advises on practical cooking techniques, such as ensuring proper resting time for roast meats and utilizing tools like a liquidizer for fast, creamy sauces. Among his most acclaimed signature dishes are the re-engineered Cornish fish bourride, the elegant veal sweetbreads with pig’s head cromesqui, and the gently prepared lemon sole with brown butter sauce and shrimps. His menu frequently features imaginative takes on classic comfort food, such as Lamb sweetbread pies and Pork in Shirtsleeves (a take on Beef Wellington). The dessert section, often overseen by Dave Pope, is also legendary, with highly praised offerings like the sherry trifle and rhubarb parfait.
Career
- Trainee Chef at Robert Carrier's Kitchen, Not specified
- Chef at The Capital Hotel, London
- Chef at Blakes, London
- Chef at Gidleigh Park, Devon
- Chef-Owner at The Merchant House, Ludlow
- Head Chef/Co-Owner at The Walnut Tree, Llanddewi Skirrid
Mentored by Robert Carrier.
Restaurants
- Walnut Tree — Llanddewi Skirrid (1 Michelin stars)