Roberto Proto

Chef Roberto Proto's culinary philosophy is deeply rooted in his Amalfitan origins, despite operating in Bergamo. He champions an "apparent simplicity" that belies a profound respect for the raw ingredient. His core ethos centers on genuineness, sincerity, and immediacy, ensuring that taste remains the undisputed protagonist on the palate. Proto meticulously sources 99% national wild-caught fish from small fishermen, emphatically rejecting farmed alternatives due to their perceived lack of sapidity and flavor compared to the Italian sea. This commitment to quality extends to other ingredients, often incorporating specific local products from his native Amalfi Coast, such as Sfusato lemons, Provolone del Monaco, Nocciole di Giffoni, and Gragnano pasta. His vision is to offer an authoritative yet informal gastronomic experience where guests feel central and welcomed, a continuation of the family trattoria spirit that preceded Il Saraceno's Michelin star. He believes in constant innovation and evolution, always striving to improve while remaining true to his authentic self and "recognizable" cuisine. This means enhancing, rather than masking, the true essence of each ingredient, allowing its natural quality to shine through without excessive manipulation or "unnecessary frills." Chef Proto's technical mastery is characterized by an "apparent simplicity" that is exceptionally difficult to achieve, focusing on minimal intervention to preserve and elevate the inherent qualities of his meticulously sourced ingredients. As a self-taught chef, his approach prioritizes the natural state of the fish, stating, "I tend never to over-process fish because excellent fish already makes the dish." He expertly balances this restraint with thoughtful technical applications, utilizing modern kitchen tools like blast chillers, dehydrators, roners, and siphons to refine textures and infuse subtle flavors. His plating is described as aesthetically appealing, with dishes like "Giardino di mare" captivating visually. Flavor profiles are distinct and balanced, designed to highlight the main ingredient without overpowering it, though he enjoys "daring" combinations, as seen in his "Ricci di mare." Subtle nods to his Amalfitan heritage, like the use of Sfusato lemon, thread through his marine-centric menu. Proto's legendary signature dishes include the inventive "Casoncello di mare," a reinterpretation of a Bergamasque staple with sea-inspired fillings and totano foam; the exquisite "Perla di gambero rosso di Mazara del Vallo" with burrata and clam consommé; the visually stunning "Giardino di mare" featuring lightly seared scallop and seasonal vegetable creams; the intensely sapid "Ricci di mare, catalogna, kefir di capra e pecorino di Gavoi"; the "Risotto in paesaggio marino" with phytoplancton; and the "Polpo laccato con aceto di Barbera e miele, cipolla di Tropea, salsa alla ‘nduja di Spilinga," celebrated for its "enthusiastic corolla of flavors." His desserts, such as "Limone... punto," also reflect his regional influences.