Rafa Centeno
Chef
Restaurants in Galicia
About Rafa Centeno
Chef Inés Abril, in partnership with Rafael Centeno at Maruja Limón, champions a culinary philosophy deeply rooted in both tradition and cutting-edge innovation, with an unwavering commitment to food safety and ingredient integrity. Her ethos posits that modern scientific advancements are not a sacrilege in haute cuisine but rather essential tools for achieving excellence. This is best exemplified by their pioneering work in ultra-freezing, a technique adopted out of necessity due to increasing anisakis contamination in even the freshest wild fish from the Vigo estuary. Abril and Centeno collaborated with the Spanish National Research Council (CSIC) to debunk preconceptions about frozen food, demonstrating that when done correctly—reaching -40 to -60 degrees Celsius rapidly and maintaining for extended periods—ultra-freezing ensures unparalleled food safety without compromising quality, making it a "path to excellence." Her vision extends beyond safety to a profound appreciation for Galicia's bounteous natural larder. With 90% of Maruja Limón’s menu derived from the sea, Abril emphasizes the extraordinary quality of local Galician wild fish and seafood, such as "merluza del Celeiro." She advocates for harnessing the region's fantastic raw materials and local produce, expressing a belief that there's no need to seek ingredients from elsewhere given the richness of their native "huerta." This philosophy is balanced by a pragmatic approach to sourcing, acknowledging the challenge of finding consistent local suppliers. Ultimately, Abril’s culinary worldview is characterized by continuous learning, a collaborative spirit, and a drive to elevate Galician gastronomy. She believes in mastering classical cooking techniques while embracing new technologies for precision, flavor retention (e.g., cooking in bags), and sustainability. This blend of foundational respect for tradition, scientific rigor, and a passionate commitment to local produce defines her unique and authoritative culinary voice. She also expressed a desire to bring more avant-garde ideas, like edible perfumes and distillates, to Galicia, aiming to close the perceived gap with culinary centers like Barcelona and Madrid. Chef Inés Abril’s signature approach is defined by a meticulous blend of scientific rigor and an intuitive reverence for Galician produce, manifesting in dishes that are both exquisitely safe and intensely flavorful. Her technical mastery is prominently displayed in her groundbreaking work on ultra-freezing wild fish—a technique she and Rafael Centeno perfected in collaboration with the CSIC. They routinely freeze fish at temperatures between -40 and -60 degrees Celsius for up to 36 hours, ensuring the complete elimination of parasites like anisakis while preserving the fish's quality, firmness, and taste. This process is integral to their operations, given that 90% of their menu is marine-sourced. Her approach to flavor and plating emphasizes purity, freshness, and the intrinsic quality of local ingredients. She advocates for the judicious use of new technologies, such as vacuum-pack cooking, to enhance precision and capture every aroma without loss. While respecting classical Galician cooking techniques, she integrates modern tools to achieve superior results. Abril’s dishes often reflect a sophisticated manipulation of textures and subtle flavor layering. For instance, in a championship dish featuring salmon, she achieved a "smoked touch" using San Simón cheese without actual smoking, complemented by the "freshness" of grapes, showcasing an innovative yet harmonious flavor profile. Among her most legendary applications are traditional Galician preparations of ultra-frozen hake, anglerfish, and red mullet, demonstrating that the technique can elevate even time-honored dishes. Her championship entries, including a lamb dish and the aforementioned salmon creation, further highlight her capacity for creative execution and technical excellence, all while working within a strong team dynamic that fosters shared ideas and collective success.
Career
- Chef at Unnamed restaurant, La Rioja
- Chef-Owner at Maruja Limón, Vigo
Mentored by Rafa Centeno.
Restaurants
- Vértigo — Sober (1 Michelin stars)
- Maruja Limón — Vigo (1 Michelin stars)