Gerard Barberan

Chef Gerard Barberan's culinary philosophy is deeply rooted in the belief that "good food made with respect always triumphs," positioning simplicity not as a lack but as the ultimate challenge. His approach transcends mere cooking, embracing the entire dining experience; he identifies as a cook for the service, cherishing comfortable tables, fine wine, weighty cutlery, and quality napkins as vital components of a memorable meal. This exacting standard is perhaps informed by his self-proclaimed "delicate" (picky) palate, which guides his aversion to raw tomatoes, poorly cooked garlic, and excessive, ill-suited spices. His dedication to ingredients is profound. At Kuro, he champions native Brazilian fish like pargo, carapau, olhete, and national tuna, while his transformative trip to Japan in 2023 ignited a passion for local organic rice, which he describes as glistening and perfect on its own. This rigorous selection process extends to his Mediterranean offerings, where spices like pepper, bay leaf, cumin, paprika, cinnamon, and nutmeg are used sparingly to ensure a light and digestible culinary experience. He consciously avoids strong, potentially indigestible flavors, such as the acidity of raw tomatoes or the bitterness of overcooked garlic. Barberan's vision is that of a global culinary explorer with a "restless spirit," constantly seeking to learn and integrate authentic traditions. From the "raizera" (authentic, traditional) Italian fare at Bottega Bernacca to the meticulously crafted Japanese omakase at Kuro, his establishments are a testament to his unwavering commitment to cultural purity, devoid of localized adaptations like cream cheese or salmon in Japanese cuisine. His future plans for a Spanish "boteco" further exemplify this, promising traditional tapas, jamón cut on the spot, and croquetas free of modern embellishments, embodying an uncompromising respect for culinary heritage and an intrinsic understanding of the profound connection between food, digestion, and well-being. Gerard Barberan's artistry is defined by technical mastery in pursuit of purity, challenging the notion that simplicity is easy. His style emphasizes precision and an almost surgical removal of anything that might detract from the authentic essence of an ingredient. A prime example of his technical finesse and dedication to unadulterated flavor is the use of `Binchotan Charcoal` at Kuro. Rejecting the common blowtorch, which he believes leaves an undesirable "butane aftertaste," Barberan employs this Japanese charcoal for its clean, smoke-free heat, delicately searing sushi and crispening nori for dishes like the mini temaki, elevating the textural and flavor profile to a sublime degree. His discerning palate also dictates strict guidelines for ingredients like garlic, which he prefers raw or perfectly handled, believing cooked garlic becomes indigestible, and a restrained hand with spices, ensuring lightness and digestibility in his Mediterranean dishes. His commitment to authenticity extends to his most legendary signature dishes, which often manifest as refined interpretations of classics. His creamy croquetas, a personal take on his grandmother's recipe, are celebrated for their irresistible texture and flavor, often featuring roasted chicken, tomato, and onion. At Kuro, while the omakase is ever-evolving, the aforementioned `Binchotan Charcoal` technique is a foundational signature, applied to various nigiri and preparations. During his travels, he famously crafted a "simplicidade absoluta" tomato risoto using exquisite Japanese organic rice, demonstrating his ability to elevate humble ingredients. At Bottega Bernacca, iconic Italian dishes like `Cacio&Pepe`, `Bolognese`, `Carbonara`, and his signature espaguete with tomato sauce are benchmarks of his 'good food made with respect' philosophy. His future aspiration for a Spanish "boteco" will feature uncompromisingly authentic offerings such as tortilla with a raw interior, hand-carved jamón, and croquetas without modern adornments, underscoring his unwavering dedication to "raizera" (root) cuisine.

Career

• Executive Chef / Supervisor at Kuro, São Paulo
• Partner / Executive Chef at Grupo Bernacca, São Paulo