Fabio Sgrò

Chef Fabio Sgrò's culinary philosophy is deeply rooted in a profound respect for the historical traditions of the Langhe, meticulously balancing them with a relentless drive for contemporary research and subtle innovation. He views his role not as a revolutionary who overturns the past, but as a guardian and an evolutionist, ensuring that every modification "accompanies" the existing heritage rather than discarding it. This ethos extends to a belief in generous, satisfying portions that nourish both body and soul, rejecting minimalist trends in favor of abundance. His approach to ingredient sourcing is fiercely local, predominantly confined to Piedmont, with a conscious decision to explore regional specialties like lake and river fish from Piemontese lakes, extending minimally into Lombardy when necessary. Sgrò is a staunch advocate for small, dedicated local producers, actively partnering with individuals like Motta for 90% of his vegetables, collaborating with small cheese makers, and sourcing exceptional fish and eels from Slow Food presidia such as Cascina Italia. He deliberately eschews large-scale distribution to ensure the authentic, robust flavors of his raw materials, famously stating, "an duck must taste like duck." This commitment also involves supporting young local producers and actively foraging for wild herbs, integrating the terroir directly into his dishes. Beyond ingredients, Sgrò's philosophy is marked by an unwavering openness to learning and collaboration. His transformative four years in Hong Kong taught him humility – "In China, I realized I knew nothing" – fostering a pragmatic, patient, and collaborative leadership style that contrasts sharply with impulsive kitchen hierarchies. He involves his brigade in creative processes, ingredient reflection, and waste reduction, valuing collective input and fostering a "highly sustainable climate in the kitchen." This spirit of confrontation and mutual growth extends to listening to suppliers, who often inspire new dish ideas. Ultimately, his overarching vision is to deliver an authentic, deeply flavorful, and thoughtful dining experience where the customer, the "real employer," is paramount, ensuring they feel welcomed, informed, and eager to return. He is committed to embedding his life and growth within Santo Stefano Belbo, a testament to his long-term investment in the region and its culinary future. Chef Fabio Sgrò's signature approach is a sophisticated synthesis of diverse culinary influences, technical mastery, and a unique perspective on presentation and flavor. His formative years, particularly his transformative experience in Hong Kong and his mentorship under Mitsuru Konishi (who imparted "impressive French basics" and Japanese techniques), have endowed him with a broad technical vocabulary. He further honed this by working for free in a traditional Japanese restaurant, meticulously observing and gradually acquiring guarded recipes and techniques, especially around handling ingredients and achieving profound flavors. A hallmark of his technical style is the extensive use of fermentation, integrated discreetly to enhance sapidity without dominating the core ingredient. His kitchen produces its own miso, koji, soy sauce, and kombucha, alongside fermented vegetables like potato and cauliflower, often employed in "zero-salt" proposals. Examples include turbot marinated in homemade soy and cooked with a Chinese barbecue sauce. He employs precise marinating techniques, such as an overnight marinade for the meat in his revisited vitello tonnato and maturing pigeon breasts in beeswax for ten days to intensify flavor. He also adapts classical methods, cooking pasta "alla risotto" style to infuse it with rich sauces. Sgrò's approach to flavor and plating prioritizes substance over ostentation, aiming for a "wow effect at first taste" rather than a visual spectacle. His presentation is often minimalist; main courses are typically divided onto two plates – one for the primary ingredient (e.g., pigeon breast, thigh, and tenderloin) and another for seasonal accompaniments (e.g., beet salad and baked squash). This deliberate separation encourages diners to focus on the unadulterated essence of each component. He subtly reinterprets Piedmontese classics, making precise adjustments like a slightly more acidic tonnato sauce or more flavorful plin, demonstrating both respect for tradition and a quest for refined balance. His legendary signature dishes exemplify this blend of tradition, innovation, and technical skill: * **Fusilloni, pil pil, carpaccio di baccalà e melograno**: A bold first course featuring pasta cooked "alla risotto" in a Basque pil pil sauce, complemented by raw cod carpaccio, acidic fermented potato cubes, and powders of pomegranate, burnt onion, and cod skin. * **Raviolo tipo gyoza con ripieno di magro da erbe spontanee**: A gyoza-inspired ravioli filled with foraged wild herbs, a testament to his connection with the local terroir, enhanced with fermented onion powder and black truffle. * **Pigeon**: A meticulously prepared dish where breast, thigh, and tenderloin are presented on a rich base derived from its bones, fortified with whipped butter and aged rice koji. It is accompanied by a pigeon and chicken liver pâté and seasonal vegetable sides like beet salad and baked squash. * **Revisited Vitello Tonnato and Plin**: While preserving the core identity of these iconic Piedmontese dishes, Sgrò introduces subtle enhancements, such as a shorter cooking time for the veal, a brighter tonnato sauce with vinegar-washed capers, and more intensely flavored plin, showcasing his ability to elevate tradition through precise technical adjustments.

Career

• Resident Chef at Il Ristorante di Guido da Costigliole, Santo Stefano Belbo

Mentored by The Alciati family (Guido, Lidia, Andrea, Monica, Ugo).