Akkapong Earl Ninsom

Chef Akkapong Earl Ninsom's culinary philosophy is a profound dedication to showcasing the authentic, diverse, and often underrepresented facets of Thai cuisine, moving far beyond the 'Americanized' interpretations he encountered early in his career. Rooted in a well-rounded upbringing that exposed him to both his Southern Thai father's bold, spicy flavors and his Central Thai mother's milder, nuanced dishes, Ninsom developed a deep appreciation for the regional variations of Thailand. His ethos is to tell stories through food, providing diners with a 'culinary education' that explores Thailand's vast landscape. This commitment was solidified through formal training with royal palace chefs in Bangkok and a pivotal apprenticeship at David Thompson's Michelin-starred Nahm. At Langbaan, this translates into a research-driven approach where monthly or bi-monthly tasting menus delve into specific Thai regions, historical periods, or cultural communities (e.g., floating markets, Bangkok's Chinatown, Muslim communities). Ninsom trusts his diners to embrace genuine, complex flavors and narratives, presenting a 'combined experience' where each dish is thoughtfully designed to complement others, removing the guesswork and enriching the meal. Ingredient sourcing emphasizes 'exceptional local ingredients' and Pacific Northwest produce, integrated thoughtfully to elevate traditional Thai concepts while remaining true to their essence. Ninsom's overarching vision extends across his culinary empire, with each restaurant dedicated to a distinct slice of Thai repertoire—from Southern Thai comfort food at Hat Yai to Thai-Chinese street food at Yaowarat. He aims to lead a charge among Thai American chefs, encouraging them to be daring, to abandon notions of restraint, and to present Thai food in its full, unpredictable glory, constantly pushing creative boundaries while fostering community and taking care of his team and patrons. Chef Ninsom's signature approach is marked by technical mastery and an ambitious, playful creativity, particularly evident at Langbaan. His style is 'detail-oriented and specific,' a direct influence from his apprenticeship at Nahm, which taught him the rigor of authentic Thai cuisine. At Langbaan, this manifests in meticulously crafted, research-driven tasting menus that rotate frequently based on thematic explorations of Thai history, geography, and culture. This constant reinvention—likened to 'opening a new restaurant each month'—demands continuous experimentation and pushes his culinary team to innovate. His technical execution focuses on balancing complex flavor profiles within each menu, ensuring a harmonious 'combined experience' where spicy sours might meet sweet and salty notes. Plating is artful and intentional, elevating traditional Thai dishes with sophisticated presentation and the incorporation of 'exceptional local ingredients' and Pacific Northwest produce. He masterfully reinterprets classic dishes, infusing them with a contemporary sensibility while preserving their cultural integrity. Legendary signature dishes showcasing his artistry include: * **Reinterpretation of Miang Som**: A delicate betel leaf wrap featuring bright cara cara oranges and toasted coconut, demonstrating a refined balance of textures and flavors. * **Charcoal-Kissed Beef Tongue Salad**: Enriched with rich bone marrow, highlighting his ability to transform humble ingredients into a luxurious and complex dish. * **Pandan Macaron with Rhubarb**: A dessert that elegantly marries Thailand's beloved pandan with a classic Western fruit, showcasing cross-cultural culinary fluency. Beyond Langbaan, his restaurants offer other iconic dishes such as the famous fried chicken crowned with golden crispy shallots at Hat Yai, and the innovative Thai take on paella served at Phuket Cafe, all reflecting his deep understanding of regional Thai identity and its creative reinterpretation.

Career

• Chef-Owner at Langbaan, Portland
• Chef-Owner at EEM, Portland
• Chef-Owner at PaaDee, Portland
• Chef-Owner at Hat Yai, Portland
• Chef-Owner at Phuket Café, Portland
• Chef-Owner at Yaowarat, Portland
• Co-founder/Chef at OK Chicken & Khaosoi, Portland