Manuel Ulrich
Chef
Restaurants in Baden-Württemberg
About Manuel Ulrich
Manuel Ulrich's culinary philosophy is rooted in elevating classic French haute cuisine with a distinct modern and fresh interpretation. He strives to offer guests unique and memorable taste experiences, particularly those not commonly found in the Black Forest region. This involves a meticulous selection of the "noblest and finest products" of French gastronomy, which he then transforms through his signature style. His approach to flavor is characterized by a sophisticated interplay of contrasting elements and a nuanced use of acidity, which adds vibrancy without dominating the palate. Dishes are meticulously crafted compositions where the "star" ingredient is central yet dynamically challenged by accompanying components, creating an intriguing tension on the plate. Ulrich's creative process is deeply introspective; ideas for new dishes often emerge in the quiet hours of the night, after the demands of daily service. This personal reflection is then brought to life through collaborative development with his sous chef and kitchen team, ensuring collective identification and refinement of each creation. Seasonality plays a crucial role in the evolution of his menus, guiding the selection of ingredients and the conception of new dishes. While firmly based on premium French products, Ulrich demonstrates a willingness to innovate by incorporating and refining "bodenständige Speisen" (down-to-earth dishes), elevating them through unexpected luxurious pairings, such as veal pluck enriched with caviar. This blend of the familiar with the exquisite, always prioritizing the highest quality of ingredients, defines his overarching vision for a refined, yet approachable, high-end dining experience. Chef Manuel Ulrich's signature approach is a masterful blend of technical precision and artistic presentation, deeply rooted in classic French techniques but imbued with a contemporary lightness and freshness. He skillfully manipulates acidity to brighten and invigorate dishes, evident in details like Amalfi lemon-infused butter or the refreshing inclusion of pickled cucumber with flambéed fennel. A hallmark of his style is the reduction of traditional heaviness, often achieved by substituting rich components, such as utilizing a delicate buttermilk sud in place of heavier creams for dishes like Kingfish. His plating transforms ingredients into "a true work of art," visibly crafted within the open kitchen, emphasizing aesthetic harmony alongside flavor complexity. Each dish is engineered as a "composition full of contrasts," where highly aromatic ingredients engage in a dynamic interplay, always ensuring the primary ingredient shines while being assertively complemented by its counterparts. Among his most celebrated creations is the sophisticated **Bouillabaisse**, presented as a pure langoustine broth serving as a refined canvas for a harmonious composition of Bouchot mussels, razor clams, and succulent Carabinero, balanced with the sweetness of tomato and the aromatic depth of saffron. Other notable dishes include a refined **Wiener Kalbsbeuscherl** (veal pluck) artfully enriched with caviar, and the opulent **Imperial Pigeon** paired with pointed cabbage, plum, and rice vinegar. His menu also features exquisite interpretations like **Sweetbread with Veal Tongue**, Fregola Sarda, Swiss chard, and Parmesan, and from his vegetarian offerings, homemade **Knöpfle with Piedmont Hazelnuts**, lettuce, and Périgord truffle. A unique and beloved guest favorite is the mysterious "Überraschungsei" (surprise egg), a dish not listed on the menu and only related to an egg in its whimsical form.
Restaurants
- Ösch Noir — Donaueschingen (2 Michelin stars)