David Goerne

Chef David Goerne's culinary philosophy is an elegant synthesis of an "insatiable gourmandise for new flavors" and an unwavering devotion to the purity of ingredients. A German chef who found his culinary soul in France, he champions an ultra-locavore approach, with sourcing extending no further than his immediate Norman environment. His dedication to local excellence is so profound that he sources bread from a baker in Saint Arnoult, organic eggs from a neighboring farm, and trout from a local hatchery in Saint Wandrille. This commitment to provenance intertwines with a rigorous, ethical sustainability ethos, culminating in his restaurant earning a Michelin Green Star. He actively battles plastic waste, repurposing antique crockery for takeout to eliminate disposables. A cornerstone of his practice is a 2,000 m² organic vegetable garden, established in 2016. This garden is not merely a source of seasonal produce but a "social act," providing employment, housing, and meals for individuals facing precarity. Goerne's conviction is that one must "ask the right questions" and choose to invest in local, sustainable producers, even if it entails reducing personal margins. His kitchen operates without exotic, air-freighted fruits, relying on fish from small local boats, free-range eggs, and whole, ethically raised poultry. He implements composting, maximizes ingredient utilization to minimize waste, and ensures his team embodies this eco-responsible mindset. Ultimately, his philosophy is to reduce dishes to their profound essence: "a top product with a great sauce – that's it," allowing the intrinsic character of each ingredient to sing, unmasked by complexity. The intimate setting of his restaurant further underscores this philosophy, fostering direct interaction with guests who witness, and thus connect with, the culinary process firsthand. Chef Goerne’s signature approach is defined by a meticulous "ballet assez étonnant" in the kitchen, a dance of precision and seamless teamwork ensuring every plate presented is nothing short of perfection. His technical mastery is directed at extracting and accentuating the "arteigenen Geschmack" (inherent taste) of each component, embracing a philosophy of reduction where dishes are distilled to their most impactful elements: a pristine ingredient, a flawless sauce, and impeccably fresh, seasonal accompaniments. This pursuit of culinary simplicity is, paradoxically, a sophisticated art, as he notes, "the simplest in cooking is sometimes the most complicated." His culinary artistry is showcased in daring yet harmonious flavor combinations and presentations, exemplified by dishes such as "geräucherte Rote Beete" (smoked beetroot), "Fois Gras als Eiscreme" (foie gras ice cream), and "Makrele mit Lakritzsauce" (mackerel with licorice sauce). A core element of his evolving menu is the "assiette de légumes," a dynamic and seasonal vegetable plate, its composition dictated daily by the harvest from his organic garden, embodying his profound respect for nature's bounty. The dining experience at G.a. is uniquely immersive, with guests seated intimately around the "Piano" (a Molteni stove), witnessing the meticulous sautéing, dressing, and serving, which fosters a direct and personal connection integral to Goerne’s culinary vision.

Career

• Apprentice (under Thomas Martin) at Unknown, Hamburg
• Chef-Owner (Table d'hôtes) at Manoir de Rétival, Rives-en-Seine
• Chef-Owner at G.a. au Manoir de Rétival, Rives-en-Seine

Mentored by Thomas Martin.