Atsushi Kono

Chef Atsushi Kono's culinary philosophy is rooted in a profound respect for the chicken, aiming to elevate yakitori from a simple street food to a sophisticated, multi-faceted culinary experience. His core ethos centers on mottainai, a Japanese principle of no-waste, where every part of the chicken, from muscle to organ to bone, is utilized to its fullest potential. He believes that "Chicken has different tastes and textures for each part. By using its different parts and preparing each part with various cooking methods, I believe I can convey all the deliciousness that chicken has to offer to our customers." This commitment extends to educating diners, encouraging them to explore less common cuts and appreciate the bird's complete flavor profile. His sourcing is meticulous, focusing on large, organic, free-range Amish chickens from Pennsylvania, with whom he maintains a 15-16 year relationship. He specifically favors female chickens for their fatty and tender qualities, but consciously procures male chickens to highlight unique parts like the testicles. "My concept is always top priority, the chicken flavor," he states, emphasizing purity and intensity. Beyond poultry, he sources authentic kishu binchotan charcoal from Japan, describing it as "the king of all charcoal" for its clean-burning, odorless properties that preserve the yakitori's delicate flavors. Complementary ingredients include specific Kyoto Saikyo miso and fresh Italian truffles, integrating Western luxury with traditional Japanese craft. Kono views his cooking as a dynamic performance, declaring, "My cooking style is always, use tempo. I'm doing cooking like I'm dancing." This rhythmic approach influences the entire dining experience, from the precise butchery to the nuanced control of the grill. His overarching vision is to create an authentic, immersive kappo-style yakitori omakase where he, as the master, controls "butchery... flavor... fire," guiding guests through a comprehensive exploration of chicken's vast deliciousness in an elegant, engaging setting. His unwavering passion for chicken and the yakitori craft is the driving force behind every skewer served. Chef Atsushi Kono's signature approach to yakitori is a testament to rigorous technical mastery and an artistic sensibility in flavor and plating, refined over 17 years to achieve what he calls "Tokyo classic" yakitori. His technical prowess begins with exceptional butchery, where he transforms whole Amish chickens into over 28 distinct skewers. He meticulously breaks down the bird with a Honesuki knife, ensuring each piece is perfectly prepared for grilling. Skewering is an art in itself; he precisely threads uniform pieces of meat onto water-soaked bamboo skewers—round (marugushi) or angled (teppogushi)—paying close attention to thickness, gaps, and balance to ensure even cooking and an optimal eating experience, sometimes employing a zigzag pattern to maximize varying tastes and textures. The heart of his technique lies in the charcoal grill, fueled by three types of kishu binchotan and reaching extreme temperatures up to 1,650 degrees Fahrenheit. He demonstrates masterful fire control, using an uchiwa (fan) to precisely regulate heat and smoke, adapting temperatures for each skewer type. He manages multiple skewers simultaneously, often 10 to 20 at once for a full counter of 14 guests, maintaining constant vigilance. A cornerstone of his flavor development is his seven-year-old aged tare sauce, a meticulously maintained blend of soy sauce, light sake, sugar, and chicken fat. Skewers are dipped into this tare at least six times during grilling, creating layers of caramelized flavor. He also utilizes chicken fat during grilling to enhance crispiness and juiciness, and sometimes incorporates sake for added aroma. Kono's plating and flavor artistry aim for an "explosion of umami," showcasing a diverse range of textures—from the crispy char of chicken skin and bonjiri to the tender juiciness of thigh and the unique creamy "pop!" of chicken testicles. His legendary signature dishes include: the **Chicken Testicle Skewer**, lauded for its creamy, melting texture; crispy **Chicken Skin Chips** as a starter; and the elegant **Chicken Pate Monaka**, a rice cracker sandwich filled with a rich chicken liver and thigh pate, accented with black truffle, Saikyo miso, and often gold leaf. Other notable items in his 16-course omakase include the succulent **Bonjiri** (tail), the rare and fatty **Hatsumoto** (main artery of the heart), and the comforting **Mizutaki Udon** concluding the meal. He often combines chicken skin with parts like oyster or knee to introduce a delightful fatty richness and textural contrast.

Career

• Sous Chef at Kyoto Suzuyoshi, Tokyo
• General Manager Executive Chef at Torishin, New York
• Yakitori Chef at Chikarashi Isso outdoor Yakitori Pop up, New York
• Chef Partner at Kono, New York